Managing Spring Grass: Protecting Your Horse from Laminitis Spring grass looks beautiful, lush, and inviting, yet it poses serious risks for horses prone to laminitis. Understanding why spring pasture is dangerous and implementing smart management strategies protects your horse while still allowing them to enjoy grazing safely. Why Spring Grass is Dangerous Spring grass contains significantly higher sugar and fructan levels compared to mature summer pasture. Rapid growth in optimal conditions produces plants storing maximum energy. Horses prone to laminitis, those with Equine Metabolic Syndrome, Cushing’s disease, or previous laminitis episodes face particular risk from these rich pastures. Identifying At-Risk Horses Horses and Ponies Predisposed to Laminitis: Overweight or obese horses, those with cresty necks, ponies and native breeds, horses with previous laminitis episodes, those diagnosed with metabolic conditions, and any horse showing insulin resistance all require careful spring grass management. Review our spring care checklist for comprehensive seasonal management strategies. Warning Signs to Monitor: Increased digital pulse, heat in hooves, reluctance to move, shifting weight between feet, pottery gait, or sensitivity when walking on hard ground all warrant immediate veterinary attention and pasture restriction. Practical Spring Pasture Management Strategies Restrict Grazing Times: Limit turnout to early morning (before 10am) when sugar levels are lowest. Avoid afternoon grazing when photosynthesis has maximised sugar content. Start with 15-30 minutes and gradually increase only if your horse shows no adverse signs. Work with an equine nutritionist to develop a safe grazing plan for your horse Use Grazing Muzzles: Grazing muzzles reduce intake by approximately 80% while allowing horses to move and graze naturally. Ensure proper fitting, introduce gradually, and supervise initially to confirm your horse adapts successfully. Create Sacrifice Areas: Establish drylots or sacrifice paddocks with no grass access for high-risk horses. Provide appropriate hay, companionship, and environmental enrichment. This eliminates guesswork about safe grazing times and provides complete control over intake. Implement Strip Grazing: Use temporary electric fencing to restrict access to small pasture sections. This limits intake while allowing grazing behaviour and reduces waste from horses camping in paddocks. Monitor Body Condition Carefully: Weigh regularly using weight tapes or scales. Track body condition scores weekly. Spring weight gain happens rapidly on rich pasture, and excess weight significantly increases laminitis risk. Frequently Asked Questions About Spring Grass Management Can I strip graze at specific times of day? Yes, combining time restriction with area restriction provides additional control. Turn horses out early morning in limited areas, then return to drylots for the remainder of the day. This strategy works well for multiple horses with varying risk levels. What should I feed if restricting grazing? Provide good quality hay analysed for sugar and starch content if possible. Look for mature hay rather than early cut grass hay. Soak hay if necessary to further reduce sugar content. Balance with appropriate low-sugar supplements to meet nutritional needs. Find quality hay and feed suppliers near you who can provide analysed hay and appropriate low-sugar supplements. How long does spring grass stay dangerous? Risk typically peaks during rapid spring growth but continues until grass matures in summer. Weather influences sugar levels too – cold nights following sunny days create particularly high sugar concentrations. Monitor conditions and adjust management throughout spring and early summer. Do all horses need restricted spring grazing? No. Healthy horses with good metabolic function typically handle spring grass well. Focus intensive management on horses with known risk factors. However, all horses benefit from gradual introduction to spring pasture rather than unlimited immediate access. Can I do anything to make my pasture safer? Allow grass to grow taller before grazing (over 8cm). Avoid overgrazing which stresses plants and increases sugar. Consider pasture species less prone to high sugar accumulation. However, management strategies are more effective than attempting to change established pastures. Consider consulting fencing specialists to create sacrifice areas or strip grazing systems. Key Takeaways About Managing Spring Grass Spring grass poses real risks for susceptible horses, but sensible management allows safe grazing while protecting against laminitis. Know your horse’s individual risk factors, implement appropriate restrictions, monitor carefully for warning signs, and work with your veterinarian/horse nutritionist to develop a comprehensive plan. Prevention is always easier than treating laminitis after it develops.
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Frequently Asked Questions About Feeding Horses Have a burning question about feeding horses? In this guide, we answer all the most frequently asked questions on this all-important topic. After all, we all want to know we’re feeding our steeds correctly. So, if you do have a question about feeding your horse, we hope you’ll find the answer here. How can I ensure my horse receives all the necessary nutrients while on a budget? Focus on good-quality hay. Explore alternative forage sources. Optimise feed rations with respect to nutrient content and balance, particularly minerals. Keep it simple and don’t feed dozens of different products for the sake of it. You’ll almost certainly be wasting money. For example, a small simple hard feed with essential minerals added plus hay or grazing is a far more cost effective, and beneficial way of feeding horses. Can I substitute hay with other forage options for feeding horses? While hay is a primary source of forage for feeding horses, you can supplement or replace it with fresh pasture turnout, some types of grain hulls, fibre pellets, beet pulp etc. Consult with an equine nutritionist to ensure you maintain a well-rounded diet for your horse. Are there any potential risks in buying horse feed in bulk? Buying in bulk can be a cost-effective solution, but proper storage is crucial. Store it in a cool, dry place. Protect it from pests and moisture to maintain its nutritional value. Can I rely solely on pasture for my horse’s nutrition? Pasture can provide excellent nutrition, but it depends on the quality and availability of the pasture. Consider rotational grazing and supplementing with hay if necessary to ensure your horse’s nutritional needs are met. Also note that some soils in Australia are deficient in certain minerals i.e. selenium. Therefore, pastures growing on these soils may also be deficient unless regularly fertilised to address these deficiencies. It’s also a good idea to ensure your horse has access to a loose lick mineral supplement to help address imbalances in the pasture. When feeding horses, is it OK for horses to just eat grass? See above. Should I get my pasture analysed? It’s always a good idea to have the soil in your paddock tested if possible. This will provide you with a good idea of what minerals may be lacking, and therefore need to be supplemented. What is the best way to feed horses? Little but often is ideal when feeding horses. They are trickle feeders and should have access to forage for at least 20 hours a day. If they are stabled or yarded for part of the day, or night, putting hay in a slow-feeder hay net will help meet this requirement. Avoid feeding large hard feeds (grains, pellets etc) in one go; split them up into several smaller feeds instead. This allows the horse to process and digest the nutrients more effectively. What should I feed my horse daily? Hay, hay, and more hay. Or similar sources of bulk forage, or good pasture! Concentrates should never make up the major portion of your horse’s daily diet. At a bare minimum, your horse requires 2% of its bodyweight in feed daily, and that’s dry weight! The bulk of this should be forage, or roughage (hay, chaff, pasture). In fact, horses survive very well on forage alone with just a small feed to provide essential minerals. Is it OK to feed a horse once a day? It’s OK to feed your horse once a day so long as: What is the best time to feed a horse? The best time to feed a horse depends on your routine and how your horse lives but typically most owners feed in the morning, and at night. If your horse is paddocked 24/7 it doesn’t matter when you feed because it will have a natural eating routine but… you should try and be consistent with whatever time you do feed. Horses stabled or yarded at night should be fed when they’re put away, and they should have enough feed to last for several hours. This reduces the amount of time they will spend not eating. Remember, in the wild horses naturally spend around 20 hours a day grazing. Can a horse go all night without food? Unlike us humans, horses don’t spend most of the night sleeping! They can, and will, spend at least some of that time eating so long as they have something to eat. As mentioned above, horses are designed to eat continuously for around 20 hours a day. Leaving them without food all night on a regular basis can lead to issues like gastric ulcers i.e. they need enough food in their stomach to buffer the digestive acids! Can you overfeed when feeding horses? You can very definitely overfeed a horse! Indeed, many well-meaning horse owners are guilty of doing just that. If any or all of the following apply, you are overfeeding your horse! Alternatively, it may have a metabolic disorder like EMS (Equine Metabolic Syndrome), which can also cause fatty deposits to develop. Should I feed my horse on the ground? Horses should be fed on the ground for preference because that’s their natural eating position. It reduces the risk of choke, respiratory problems, and colic. It’s also better for their teeth because they wear more naturally. However, if this isn’t possible, placing their feed as close to the ground as possible also works. What you want to avoid is consistently feeding them above chest height. Should horse feed be wet or dry? There are several reasons for dampening down horse feed. Note the keyword here is ‘damp’ NOT soaking wet (unless the horse won’t drink so you’re trying to get fluid into it). However, if you’re just feeding pellets or sweet feeds (one with molasses mixed through it) you generally don’t need to dampen it. For example, if you mostly feed hay plus a small feed of balancer pellets on their own, you don’t need to dampen
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Different Types Of Hay For Horses Quality hay is a key component in your horse’s diet but there are many different types of hay for horses. Understanding the various types of hay available and their specific benefits for horses can be a game changer in terms of their health and wellbeing. In this article, we consider the different types of hay for horses. We explore their nutritional value, discuss potential health concerns, and provide tips on selecting the best hay for your horse. Ultimately, we hope it will equip you with the knowledge you need to make informed decisions about your horse’s hay requirements. Why Is Knowing About Different Types Of Hay For Horses Important? A good horse diet starts with forage, or hay, and builds up from there. Many modern domestic horses do not have access to vast acreages of natural forage. As a result, hay has become the ‘go to’ forage substitute for most horse owners. So hay, in fact, forms the foundation of most horse diets. Significantly, it provides many essential nutrients that are vital for their digestive health and wellbeing. Therefore, understanding the different types of hay helps ensure your horse gets the right balance of fibre, protein, and other nutrients they need. And – choosing the right hay supports your horse’s digestive health, energy levels, and overall condition. What Are The Benefits Of Different Types Of Hay For Horses? Not all horse hays are created equal! Some are better for horses than others. But in general, the benefits of hay are – Nutritional Balance Each type of hay offers a different nutritional profile. For instance, lucerne (alfalfa) hay is rich in protein and calcium, making it suitable for young, growing horses, lactating mares, or performance horses that need extra energy. In contrast, grass hays like timothy are lower in protein but higher in fibre, ideal for maintaining a healthy digestive system and preventing obesity in adult horses. Digestive Health High-fibre hays such as meadow and pasture hay promote healthy digestion by stimulating chewing and saliva production. This helps buffer stomach acid and prevent conditions like gastric ulcers. The fibre also keeps gut content moving, and helps prevent colic. Weight Management Selecting the appropriate hay type can help manage your horse’s weight. For instance, feeding mature horses high protein hay, like lucerne, might lead to excessive weight gain. Conversely, lower-calorie grass hays can help keep your horse’s weight in check. Cost-Effectiveness Understanding the nutritional needs of your horse allows you to choose the most cost-effective hay. For example, lucerne hay can be more expensive than grass hays, but if your horse requires the additional nutrients, the investment is worthwhile. On the other hand, if your horse is a low-energy adult, a less expensive grass hay might suffice. Dental Health The act of chewing fibrous hay helps maintain healthy teeth by naturally wearing them down. This reduces the risk of dental issues, which can be costly and painful for your horse. Common Types Of Hay For Horses Here are some of the most common types of hay fed to horses in Australia. Oaten Hay Oaten hay is a cereal hay widely used in Australia. Grown from varieties of oats developed for hay rather than grain production, It’s higher in energy than grass hay so a good choice for horses in moderate work. Ensure it is free from mould and dust to prevent respiratory issues. Oaten hay can also have moderate to high sugar levels, so it’s important to test its sugar content before feeding it to laminitic horses or those with metabolic disorders. It can be suitable if the sugar levels are within safe limits. Alternatively, soaking cereal hays to remove some of the sugar also works well. Wheaten Hay Wheaten hay is another cereal hay commonly fed to horses. It provides a moderate level of energy and fibre. Again, make sure it is clean and free from dust and mould. Wheaten hay can be a good option for horses in light to moderate work. Wheaten hay may also have variable sugar content. For this reason, it’s advisable to test it to ensure it is safe for laminitic horses or horses with metabolic disorders. When sugar levels are low, it can be a good part of the diet. Meadow Hay Meadow hay is a mix of various grasses and sometimes legumes. Good quality meadow hay is custom grown using specially selected grasses and legumes. Poor quality meadow hay is often just native paddock grass (and weeds) that have been cut and baled. Therefore, its nutritional content can vary. Quality meadow hay though generally offers a balanced diet for most horses, and is closer to their natural forages. It’s an excellent choice for horses with no specific dietary needs. Sugar content in meadow hay is generally balanced but varies depending on the grasses and legumes present. And also the weather conditions when cut, soil quality etc. Testing is recommended to ensure it is suitable for laminitic horses or those with metabolic disorders. Rhodes Grass Hay Rhodes grass hay is commonly grown in tropical and subtropical regions, and shipped to southern regions. It’s high in fibre and relatively low in protein, suitable for maintaining a healthy digestive system and managing weight. Rhodes hay typically has low sugar levels, making it a good option for horses with laminitis or metabolic issues. Its high fibre content also supports digestive health. However, it is an ‘acquired’ taste and many horses take a while to get used to it. Lucerne (Alfalfa) Hay Lucerne is a legume hay known for its high protein and calcium content. It’s suitable for young, growing horses, lactating mares, and performance horses. The nutritional content of lucerne hay varies considerably depending on how it’s grown. For example, lucerne grown naturally in fields like meadow hay is usually not as nutrient-dense as cultivated lucerne. Therefore, this type of lucerne can often make up a substantial portion of the hay component of a diet without too many issues. However, when
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Sustainable Pasture Management – A Comprehensive Approach Sustainable pasture management is a cornerstone of eco-friendly horse keeping. It involves practices that maintain healthy, productive pastures while minimising environmental impact. Proper management not only supports the wellbeing of your horses but also contributes to broader ecological health. In this post we provide a detailed look at how to achieve sustainable pasture management: Rotational Grazing for Sustainable Pasture Management Rotational grazing involves dividing your pasture into smaller paddocks and rotating horses through them. This allows each section time to rest and recover between grazing periods. Benefits of Rotational Grazing Implementing rotational grazing offers multiple advantages that support pasture and soil health. Prevents Overgrazing By rotating paddocks, you prevent any single area from being overgrazed, which helps maintain healthy grass cover. Improves Soil Health Rest periods allow for natural regeneration of the pasture and the build-up of organic matter in the soil. Reduces Erosion Healthy, well-maintained grass cover reduces soil erosion caused by wind and water. Implementing Rotational Grazing Plan Paddock Layout Design your paddocks to allow for easy rotation and ensure that each area gets adequate rest. Drag or Mow Drag or mow each paddock as the horses move out to break up manure. This not only returns nutrients to the soil but also reduces long rank patches they won’t eat. Monitor Grass Growth Use grass height or ground cover measurements to determine when to move horses to a new paddock. Plant Native Grasses and Legumes for Sustainable Pasture Management Planting native grasses and legumes supports local biodiversity and is better suited to the local climate and soil conditions. Benefits of Native Grasses and Legumes Choosing native plants provides environmental and practical advantages. Biodiversity Native plants provide habitat and food for local wildlife, supporting a balanced ecosystem. Reduced Water and Fertiliser Needs Native species are adapted to local conditions and often require less water and fertiliser. Implementing the Planting of Native Grasses and Legumes Successfully incorporating native grasses and legumes involves research and careful selection. Research Local Species Choose grasses and legumes that are native to your region and suitable for your soil type. Seed Selection Purchase seeds from reputable suppliers and consider soil testing to determine the best mix of species for your pasture. Soil Health Management for Sustainable Pasture Management Healthy soil is fundamental to sustainable pasture management. Soil health impacts grass growth, water retention, and overall pasture productivity. Benefits of Effectively Managing Soil Health Maintaining soil health offers long-term benefits for pasture productivity and environmental sustainability Enhanced Grass Growth Well-managed soil promotes healthy grass growth and improves pasture productivity. Water Retention Healthy soil has better water-holding capacity, reducing the need for irrigation and preventing runoff. Implementation of Effective Soil Health Management Managing soil health involves regular testing and the addition of organic matter. Soil Testing Regularly test soil to monitor pH, nutrient levels, and organic matter. This helps guide your fertilisation and liming practices. Organic Matter Addition Incorporate compost or well-rotted manure to improve soil structure and nutrient content. Erosion Control for Sustainable Pasture Management Erosion control measures help prevent the loss of topsoil and maintain pasture health. Benefits of Erosion Control Effective erosion control protects your pasture and contributes to better water quality. Prevents Soil Loss Erosion control techniques reduce the loss of valuable topsoil, which is crucial for pasture growth. Improves Water Quality Reducing soil erosion helps prevent sediment from entering waterways, protecting water quality. Implementation of Erosion Control Measures Implementing erosion control requires strategic planning and the use of specific techniques. Grassed Waterways Create grassed waterways or buffer strips along streams and ditches to reduce runoff and capture sediment. Contour Plowing Plough or seed along the contours of the land to slow water flow and reduce soil erosion. Weed and Pest Management for Sustainable Pasture Management Managing weeds and pests sustainably helps protect pasture health and reduces the need for chemical interventions. Benefits of Good Weed and Pest Management Sustainable weed and pest management methods offer effective control while minimising environmental impact. Reduces Chemical Use Integrated pest management (IPM) strategies minimise reliance on chemical pesticides. Maintains Grass Health Effective weed and pest management keeps grasses healthy and competitive. Implementation of Weed and Pest Management Measures Implementing sustainable weed and pest management involves using a variety of strategies. IPM Practices Use a combination of biological controls (e.g., beneficial insects), cultural practices (e.g., proper mowing), and minimal use of chemicals. Monitor and Act Regularly inspect pastures for weeds and pests and act promptly to address any issues. Fertilisation Practices for Sustainable Pasture Management Sustainable fertilisation practices support pasture health while minimising environmental impact. Benefits of Sustainable Fertilisation Practices Proper fertilisation ensures optimal growth and reduces environmental harm. Optimised Nutrient Use Applying the right type and amount of fertiliser improves pasture growth and reduces nutrient runoff. Minimises Environmental Impact Proper fertilisation reduces the risk of nutrient leaching into waterways, which can cause pollution. Implementation Sustainable Fertilisation Practices Effective fertilisation requires careful selection and application of fertilisers. Use Organic Fertilisers Consider using organic or slow-release fertilisers to reduce the risk of runoff and improve soil health. Apply Based on Need Base fertilisation rates on soil test results to avoid over-application and minimise environmental impact. Pasture Renovation for Sustainable Pasture Management Renovating pastures involves re-seeding or planting to restore or improve pasture quality. Benefits of Pasture Renovation Pasture renovation can rejuvenate degraded pastures and enhance their productivity. Restores Productivity Renovation can rejuvenate tired or degraded pastures, improving their productivity and resilience. Enhances Biodiversity Introducing a diverse mix of grasses and legumes can enhance biodiversity and pasture health. Implementing Pasture Renovation Renovating pastures effectively involves assessing needs and selecting appropriate methods. Assess Needs Determine whether your pasture needs renovation due to poor growth, weed infestation, or other issues. Choose Appropriate Methods Depending on the extent of renovation needed, you might use methods such as overseeding, re-seeding, or complete replanting. Grazing Management Techniques for Sustainable Pasture Management Employing various grazing management techniques can help balance pasture use and recovery. Benefits of Grazing
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The Pros and Cons of Hay Nets What are the pros and cons of hay nets? Should you use one? In this 3rd post in our hay net series, we look at the advantages, and disadvantages, of using them. For more information about the types of hay nets available, check our second post. Pros and Cons of Hay Nets – The Pros Some of the advantages of using horse hay nets include Controlled feeding and weight control Hay nets allow you to restrict hay intake according to the horse’s individual requirements. Fat horses, and most ponies, benefit from slow feeder nets that restrict intake and extend the length of time it takes them to consume the contents so you feed less. Simulates natural grazing Horses need the buffer of constant food in their stomach to help protect the lining from gastric acids and prevents things like equine squamous gastric disease (ESGD). By slowing feeding rate, hay nets help provide that protective buffer by significantly extending eating time. Prevent boredom Stabled and yarded horses only fed twice a day can inadvertently go long periods without eating. This is a recipe for health issues like gastric ulcers and ESGD as well as behavioural problems (cribbing, wind sucking, weaving) brought on by stress and boredom. Providing their hay in nets, particularly slow feeder nets, extends the length of time it takes them to eat it. This reduces time spent not eating, and more closely mimics natural feeding patterns. Reduce spoilage and wastage If you’ve ever seen the mess horses make when given unrestricted access to a roll or bale of hay, you’ll understand this pro only too well! Horses are selective grazers by nature. Given the opportunity, they will rummage through hay to find the ‘best bits’. The rest is spread out, trodden on, and pooped and peed all over! Horse hay nets prevent this. Reduce the risk of eating sand and dirt Hanging hay nets keep hay off the ground so the horse isn’t picking through sand and dirt, or mud, when eating the hay. This is important for preventing potentially fatal health problems like sand colic. Are ideal for travelling Hanging a hay net in the float when you’re travelling, or at a show, keeps your horse occupied and, if competing, provides the energy required for competition. Pros and Cons of Hay Nets – The Cons Convenient though hay nets are, they do have some disadvantages. Some are the result of how the hay net is used rather than an issue with the hay net itself. For example, studies indicate that the type of hay net influences the height at which it should be tied… Therefore, if tied correctly, cons don’t result! Musculoskeletal issues Studies like this one suggest that when horses have to pull hay from small hole hay nets, especially when hung in the wrong position, the pulling forces involved can strain their back and neck. The following information comes from the mentioned study. Note however that the hay nets used in the study were small-hole ones. Respiratory problems Horse are grazers. They evolved to eat from the ground. Most horses can also cope with eating positions from wither height down. Any higher than that though i.e. hanging a hay net too high, and it can impact drainage from nasal passages, which in turn can lead to potentially serious respiratory issues. Dental problems Horse dentists report that, over long periods, incorrect head and jaw positioning caused by badly positioned hay nets and feed bins can result in significant unnatural wear, and also damage, to their teeth. This in turn impacts how they chew and break down food, and subsequently how well they then digest it. As mentioned previously, hay nets can snag on teeth, notably loose baby teeth, or on loose, decaying, or isolated teeth in horses that have age-related dental disease. Choke and digestive hazard Horses prone to chewing things, like hay nets, probably shouldn’t be allowed near them! They could ingest enough of one to either choke, or cause a major intestinal blockage! Don’t completely mimic natural feeding Although horse hay nets do provide some benefits in this regard, like a slower, more natural feeding rate, horses also receive a diverse range of sensory experiences when foraging that hay nets can’t replicate. Frustration and anxiety Small hole hay nets can lead to stress and frustration if the horse can’t pull enough hay out either because the hay is too stalky and bulky for the hole sizes, or the net swings and moves around so they can’t get enough purchase to extract the hay, or they have dental issues that make it hard for them. This impacts their welfare, and can cause behavioural issues as well. Hoof entanglement Horses may get hooves caught in hay nets tied too low. So – always ensure you tie it high enough to be out of harm’s reach. But – not so high it creates more issues in other parts of their body! Your FAQs About The Pros and Cons of Hay Nets Answered Can hay nets be used for horses with dental issues? It depends on the horse, the type of dental issues it has, and whether or not it can comfortably extract enough hay from the net to meet its requirements. A horse with EOTRH (Equine Odontoclastic Tooth Resorption and Hypercementosis), a disease that affects the incisors (front teeth), probably won’t be able to use a hay net, or at least not one with small holes. One that has issues with molars or gums should be able to use a hay net but again, may have trouble with a slow-feeder net. Can hay nets be used outdoors? Yes, many hay nets are made for indoor AND outdoor use. Look for UV-resistant materials to ensure durability in various weather conditions. However, don’t leave the net hanging outside when it’s in use because it will deteriorate. Should I use a hay net on a roll if I feed it out? Yes
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Top tips to using a Horse Hay Net Correctly Learn how to use a horse hay net correctly in this 2nd post in our 3 part series about hay nets. Hay nets are a convenient and controlled way to feed your horse, or pony. However, using them incorrectly can lead to unintended consequences, such as injuries or digestive issues. So, to maximise the benefits of hay nets while minimising the risks, it is important to understand proper usage. And – that’s where this handy guide to using a horse hay net properly comes in. First, though – don’t overfill your hay net. Tightly bunched hay, especially in slow feeder nets, can be difficult for the horse to extract. If you do need to feed out a lot of hay in one feed, consider buying a larger hay net so you don’t need to overstuff it. How To Fill Hay Nets Before you can use a hay net, you obviously have to fill it! To the uninitiated, this can present a few issues because… Filling horse hay nets involves 2 simultaneous actions – holding the hay net open, and filling it with hay. Given that we only come equipped with 2 hands, this can present a bit of a problem on your own! But – we do have teeth and yes, they can double as a 3rd hand in these circumstances to help hold the net open! Top tip – make sure the hay net is reasonably clean first! Fortunately, if you board your horse somewhere, there will probably be someone around to give you a hand. One of you holds the net open, and the other one fills it with hay. In which case, it’s a simple case of neatly popping in a couple of biscuits of hay, or pulling some off the roll. Hay Net Fillers Alternatively, consider buying a hay net filler, which is normally a large ring on a stand with several hooks. To use, suspend the hay net from the ring by attaching the drawstring rings to the hooks. This holds it open so you can use both hands to fill it. Or you can MYO. One type of DIY hay net filler has hooks around the top of a large drum for suspending the net inside the drum. This system also catches the small bits that fall out of the hay net. This reduces wastage because they can be fed to your horse too. Another simple alternative is attaching a couple of carabiner clips, or some small hooks, to the wall or to a piece of mesh that you attach to the wall. Hook the hay net rings to these. You then hold the front of the net open with one hand, and use your other hand to fill it. Normally, once you have some hay in the net, it will hold itself open. That then frees up both hands to finish filling it. The advantage to this latter system is that it doesn’t take up floor space in the hay shed. Additionally, the hooks can double as hangers if not being used for filling hay nets!). How To Use Horse Hay Nets Horse hay nets are relatively easy to use. Simply fill (but don’t overstuff) then secure somewhere safe and easily accessible to your horse. How To Tie Hay Nets Safety is always the primary consideration when tying a hay net. Firstly, always hang it somewhere safe at a height where the horse can’t get hooves caught in it. Secondly, hang it at the correct height for comfortable feeding. Thirdly, preferably hang it so it doesn’t swing or move around too much whilst the horse is trying to use it. Some horses will find this off-putting and may stop using it altogether. Finally, use a knot or bow that can be easily pulled undone. Remember, the knot or bow will tighten when the horse starts pulling out hay. There’s nothing worse than having to cut an expensive hay net free because you’ve used a knot you can’t undo. Another point to note – if you have other critters around (cows, sheep, goats etc) make sure they can’t get tangled in the hay net! Especially if they have horns… How To Tie Hay Nets In A Horse Float Tie the hay net in the horse float at a height that allows easy access to the hay but is far enough away to prevent, or reduce the risk of, entanglement. Also, remember that hay nets do result in a certain amount of wastage. Therefore, if cleaning out the front of your horse float is a problem, perhaps consider a hay bag instead. Furthermore, some show grounds restrict the use of hay on the grounds so again a hay bag may be a more feasible option if you are travelling to a show. FAQ’s About Using Horse Hay Nets Are there safety precautions to consider when using hay nets? Yes, there are. We’ve touched on these in the body of the article above. What is the recommended hay-to-net ratio? The easiest rule of thumb is to ensure the net is filled with enough hay to last until the next feeding whilst not being over stuffed. Choose your hay net size with this consideration in mind. How many hay nets should a horse have a day? How much hay does your horse need to eat per day? How big is the hay net? A large horse eating from a small hay net will need several hay nets a day. These should preferably spaced out over the course of the day. For example, if the horse needs 8 kilos of hay per day, and the hay net will only comfortably hold 2 – 3 kilos, then you’ll need to refill it at least 3 – 4 times. If the hay net is a large one designed to hold up to half a bale, then you may only need to fill it once. However, in this instance consider
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Horse Hay Nets – The Knots And Strings Horse hay nets are an invaluable tool around the stable and paddock. They are a convenient and efficient way to provide your horse with access to hay while minimising wastage. Additionally, they encourage slower consumption. In this, our first in a series of horse hay net guides, we take a dive into the knots and strings of horse hay nets. We discuss the different types of hay nets, explain what they are, and how they’re made. What Are Horse Hay Nets? Horse hay nets are a webbed netting bag for holding hay made from heavy-duty nylon rope or cord webbing net. The netting has diamond shaped openings, which come in various diameters depending on the required feeding rate. Most commonly, the top of the hay net has rings or loops around the edge to hold a drawstring. When the hay net is full, the drawstring closes the bag. You then use it to attach the hay net to a secure anchor point. However, hay nets for small square hay bales or round hay rolls, have other types of closures. Horse Hay Nets vs. Hay Bags The terms ‘horse hay nets’ and ‘horse hay bags’ are sometimes used interchangeably. However, they are not the same thing. A horse hay bag is a solid heavy-duty canvas or nylon bag (as opposed to webbing net), with a single feeding hole in the side. Both have their advantages, and disadvantages. How Horse Hay Nets Are Made Hay nets are made from either knotted or woven (knotless) webbing net. Knotted Horse Hay Nets Knotted hay nets are generally cheaper than knotless hay nets, are strong and durable, and have several distinct features. They’re often made from (colourful) UV-stabilised polyethylene braided cords knotted together at the intersections to create the diamond-shaped holes. These holes range from 3 – 10+cms in diameter depending on the type of hay net. The cords used to make knotted hay nets are typically quite strong, durable, and water-resistant, making them ideal for soaking hay, or for outdoors use. There is a slight risk horses may get teeth caught in the knots. However, the nets do tighten up with use so don’t usually pose too many problems in this regard. Knotless Or Woven Horse Hay Nets Knotless hay nets are typically more expensive than knotted hay nets. They offer strength and durability, and have several features that distinguish them from knotted hay nets. They are made from woven (as opposed to knotted) high-strength polypropylene webbing net with a fine cord. The holes range from 2 – 6cm in diameter. Smaller (1cm) holes are available but are not as common. The small holes are ideal for holding shorter/finer types of hay (lucerne, chopped hay etc). They are also softer, and suit some horses better than the coarser knotted hay nets. But – although the cord is strong and durable, it is heavy, tends to absorb water, and can snag seed heads. Horse Hay Net Hole Sizes We touched on hole size above but generally horse hay net hole sizes range from. Small Holes (3-4 cm) Hay nets with holes this small are commonly called ‘slow feeder’ hay nets. Their purpose is to slow down feeding rate, making them a good option for horses prone to overeating. They also help reduce waste in the case of finer hays. Medium Holes (5-6 cm) These sized holes are a good balance between eating speed and hay access. They prevent the horse from gorging on hay whilst still allowing reasonably easy feeding access, and also help reduce waste with coarser stalked hays. Large Holes (7+ cm) Hay nets with bigger holes allow easy access to the hay but can lead to waste with medium and fine stalked hays. Nevertheless, they suit large nosed horses that would struggle to make much headway with the other sizes. They’re also good for horses that need to get through large volumes of hay, and horses with dental issues that cannot pull hay from small holes. Types Of Horse Hay Nets Horse hay nets come in several different constructions, and in various shapes and sizes to suit different applications. Standard Round tubular shaped netting bag that expands into a ball when filled. Has a drawstring closure. Slow Feeder Hay Net Similar in shape to a standard horse hay net but has smaller holes to slow down eating and more naturally mimic the nibbling of natural grazing. Double Hay Net These have 2 layers of netting to further reduce hole size but you can always make your own by putting one hay net inside the other to achieve the same effect. Hanging Hay Net Usually a square or rectangular netting bag with a fitting on each of the top corners to attach to anchor points on walls or rails. Bale or Hay Roll Nets Designed for large square bales, or hay rolls, these nets enclose the entire bale for protection, access control, and reduced wastage. Sizes Of Horse Hay Nets Regardless of how you feed out your hay – by the biscuit, by the bale, by the roll – there is a type of hay net to suit. Small Hanging Hay Nets These range from pony-sized (1 biscuit of hay) to large horse-sized (3 or 4 biscuits of hay). They have either a drawstring, or hanging points for suspending from attachment points or rails. Small Square Bale Hay Nets These are ideal to feed out entire bales. Depending on size, they hold half a standard small square bale to 3 bales. Round Bale Hay Nets These are a great, and cheaper alternative, to a hay ring or hay hut if you feed round hay rolls in the paddock. They are available to fit both 4” and 5” roles. Many people use both a net and a hay ring i.e. they put the roll into a net before putting it into the ring. Whilst a standard hay roll net won’t keep your hay dry, you can buy
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What You Need to Know About The Role of Hay in Your Horse’s Diet How important is feeding hay to horses? The vast majority of domestic horses in Australia are fed some type of hay, and for good reason. They are not native to this country and neither is a lot of the vegetation they evolved to survive on in the wild. That has meant providing purpose-grown pasture for them, with all the work and maintenance that goes with keeping paddocks full of grass suitable for horses… Or feeding hay. In this article, we discuss the importance of hay for your horse, its benefits, types of hay, and address common questions surrounding its role in a horse’s diet. So, read on to discover the importance of hay in your horse’s diet. Hay, Hay, Hay – It’s Important For Horses Hay is one the most important things you’ll ever feed your horse. It provides essential nutrition, fulfils their forage needs, and helps supply the bulk of their dietary intake by weight. Indeed, without hay, or the alternative – access to good pasture – you’ll find it almost impossible to feed your horse correctly! The Significance and Importance of Feeding Hay to Horses Feeding hay to horses serves as a primary source of forage. It provides essential nutrients, aids digestion, and promotes dental health. Further, allowing free choice access to hay can mimic natural grazing habits and provide the psychological benefits that go with it. However, understanding how your horse metabolises hay is key to understanding why it’s such an important component in their diet. How Your Horse Metabolises Hay Horses have a unique digestive system called a hindgut fermentation system. This allows them to extract nutrients from the fibrous components of plant material like hay. This fermentation process is key for supplying their energy needs and for overall digestive health. They also have an incredibly long digestive tract – metres long in fact! So, by the time that biscuit of hay you saw disappearing at one end reappears at the other end, it’s completed quite a journey! Chewing and Stomach First, the fibre is ground up and broken down by the sideways motion of the horse’s jaw and teeth. During this process, the horse produces saliva that further helps digest the hay and moistens it for swallowing. Once the hay reaches the horse’s stomach, gastric enzymes and acids partially digest the fibres in the hay. Remember, the equine stomach is relatively small. So, compared to other hay eaters, it is not as efficient at breaking down large volumes of fibrous material like hay. Rather, horses are trickle feeders and must continually eat and digest small volumes of food. Small Intestine The partially digested hay then moves into the ~21 metre long small intestine. Here digestive enzymes and beneficial bacteria break it down further. This releases nutrients in the hay – proteins, carbohydrates, and fats – for absorption. Most are absorbed in the small intestine. Caecum After passing through the small intestine, the remaining undigested hay enters the caecum, a 1.2 metre long fermentation chamber at the start of their large intestine. Here, specialised bacteria break down the remaining fibres, releasing volatile fatty acids that provide additional energy for the horse. This fermentation process also generates a lot of internal heat, which helps keep the horse warm. For example, digesting one kilo of roughage produces enough heat to keep the horse warm for up to 3 hours. So – the more hay you feed, the longer they can stay warm. Large Intestine and Small Colon What’s left of the hay after the caecum has finished with it passes into the large intestine where fermentation continues. From there, any undigested material moves into the small colon (3 – 3.6 metres long). Any remaining water is absorbed here. Finally, the remaining indigestible fibre is compacted into those familiar manure balls. These are then eliminated via the rectum. Benefits and Importance of Feeding Hay to Horses Hay is an ideal feed for horses for many reasons, although it’s important to note that not all hays suit all horses. Fat, laminitic ponies and horses for example should stay away from sugar-rich cereal hays (oaten, wheaten) and be fed low-sugar meadow hays instead. Having said that, the benefits of hay for the majority of horses are: Fibre Content Hay is very high in the type of bulky dietary fibre horse require for proper digestive function. It aids in maintaining a healthy gastrointestinal tract and prevents issues like colic and ulcers. We mentioned this above – digesting fibre also generates heat, which helps keep the horse warm. Kind of like an internal combustion stove! Dental Health Several studies indicate that a predominantly roughage diet (like hay) improves equine dental health because it requires a wide range of jaw movement and a slower chewing rate than eating concentrates. However, equine dental technicians are increasingly finding that horses with prolonged access to high sugar hays have a higher incidence of caries than horses that aren’t. Mental Stimulation The act of grazing and foraging on hay provides mental stimulation for horses, satisfying their natural trickle feeding instincts and preventing boredom-related behaviours. Nutritional Balance Different types of hay offer varying nutritional profiles, allowing you to tailor your horse’s diet to their specific needs. Choosing the right hay and complementary supplements helps ensure a well-balanced nutritional intake for your horse. Frequently Asked Questions About the Importance of Feeding Hay to Horses How much hay should I feed my horse? Horses typically require 1.5% to 2.5% of their body weight in hay daily. Factors like age, activity level, and metabolism should be considered when determining the appropriate amount. What are the different types of hay? Common types of hay in Australia include cereal hays (oaten, wheaten, barley) as well as meadow hay, grass hay, and lucerne hay. Each has its own nutritional composition and suitability for different horses and dietary requirements. Nutritional content of hay also varies from region to region across Australia. Can hay
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Cost-effective nutrition for your horse It is possible to feed horses on a budget! When it comes to caring for your horse or pony, providing proper nutrition is essential. However, with costs skyrocketing, horse ownership can sometimes be a financial challenge, and it’s certainly not getting any cheaper. In this article, we explore valuable tips and strategies to help you without compromising on your horse’s health and wellbeing. Whether you’re a new horse owner or simply looking to save some money, read on to discover cost-effective ways to feed horses on a budget with the nutrition they need. Understanding Horse Nutrition Basics Before we dive into tips on how to feed horses on a budget, we probably should establish some basic principles regarding horse nutrition. Understanding this will help you make better-informed decisions and optimise your horse’s health. Basic Equine Nutrition Principles Horses need to consume a minimum of 2% of their body weight just for maintenance. This amount goes up when they’re in work, growing, pregnant, or feeding a foal. Thus, a 500kg horse needs at least 10 kilos of feed for maintenance. Many need closer to 12 kilos. A 600kg horse needs at least 12 – 15 kilos, and so on. If your horse is not maintaining weight on the recommended amount for its weight, increase the amount. Conversely, if it’s putting on too much weight, reduce the amount. Horses should receive at least 1-2% of their body weight as bulk forage or roughage i.e. hay, chaff, grazing etc. So – how much hay do I need to feed a 600kg horse? Between 6 – 12 kilos per day. Horses are trickle feeders meaning their digestive system is designed for continuous consumption of small amounts of food. In their natural state, they rarely go more than 3 or 4 hours a day without eating, and they also rarely ‘gorge’ themselves on huge meals in one sitting. Unfortunately, neither of these fit in with many modern horse husbandry practices, which is why so many domestic horses have metabolic disorders and behavioural problems. They are stabled or yarded for hours without access to forage, and fed kilos of feed in one or two meals. Horses can produce most of the vitamins they need in their gut so long as they have access to the right feed sources (i.e. green forages). Therefore, feeding vitamin supplements is probably a waste of money. Minerals however are a different story, and most horses do require some type of mineral supplementation, if only to balance out the excessively high iron levels in forages. Cost-Effective Feeding Strategies for your Horse Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s explore practical tips to help you feed horses on a budget while still meeting your horse’s nutritional requirements. These strategies will assist you in maximising your budget without compromising the quality of your horse’s diet. Tip 1 – Evaluate Your Horse’s Nutritional Needs Horses can be wasteful creatures when it comes to effective metabolism of nutrients, and many owners make the expensive mistake of overfeeding various nutrients that just end up in the horse’s manure or urine. That’s great news for your paddocks, compost heap, or veggie garden but not such good news for your wallet. Indeed, one of the reasons horse manure is much loved by gardeners is precisely because it contains so many nutrients. However, you really want your horse using those nutrients, not your garden or horse paddock! Arm yourself with some basic knowledge about equine nutrition. There’s plenty available on the Internet, and also some good feed analysis programs around. If your budget can stretch to professional advice, some vets offer a feed analysis service, as do some feed companies (some of these services are even free!). Or consult an equine nutritionist. This will help you avoid unnecessary expenses on overfeeding, or on supplements or feed that may not be suitable for your horse. Tip 2 – Optimise Feed Rations Developing a well-balanced feed for your horse can save you a lot of expense by reducing excess or redundant supplements. If you’re already feeding a good balancer pellet, or complete feed, at the recommended rate for your horse for example, there’s no point feeding a vitamin or mineral supplement as well. At best, you’re wasting money by doubling up on nutrients your horse will just poop or pee out. At worst, you can create nutritional imbalances, or overfeed micronutrients like selenium, that will eventually compromise your horse’s health. If you are concerned what you’re feeding may not completely meet your horse’s nutritional needs, get the diet analysed. Then tailor the feed to suit. Tip 3 – Focus on Quality Hay Hay is a staple in a horse’s diet, so providing good-quality hay is essential. Never feed your horse mouldy or poor quality hay. Unlike ruminants (cows, sheep, goats) horses cannot regurgitate food so what goes in one end stays in the horse until it exits out the other end. If it’s poor quality, it can cause all manner of health problems on its way through your horse’s digestive tract! Just as buying groceries in bulk can help your household budget, buying hay in bulk can also pay off. Hay rolls for example are generally much better value than the equivalent in small bales, and an ideal way to source hay if you have somewhere to store it. You’ll also find it is cheaper buying hay in bulk direct from the farm rather than through your local feed store. Tip 4 – Consider Alternative Forage Sources If the cost of hay is a concern, explore alternative forage sources. Access to paddock turnout can be a good way to supply part of your horse’s forage requirements. In fact, good quality pasture is an excellent source of nutrients as well as being cost-effective. Additionally, you may consider sourcing alternative types of bulk fibre, such as beet pulp, oat hulls, lupin husks, pelleted fibre feeds, and other similar products, to replace a portion of the hay in your
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Understanding the importance of equine minerals Equine Minerals are vitally important. They play important roles in various physiological functions, including bone development, muscle function, and immune system support. In particular, understanding how certain minerals work together, and the implications of unbalanced ratios between them is crucial for your horse’s health and wellbeing. Explore the significance of equine minerals, their functions, and how to ensure your horse receives the right mineral balance in their nutrition. The Role of Equine Minerals in Your Horse’s Health Unlike vitamins, your horse can’t manufacture minerals. Therefore, they have to be supplied as part of their diet. Further, your horse requires these in specific amounts, and often in conjunction with other minerals, to maintain optimal health. Here’s a brief look at some of the important roles equine minerals play in your horse’s health. Bone and Hoof Health Calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium contribute to the development and maintenance of strong bones and hooves. Muscle Function Potassium and magnesium are crucial for proper muscle contraction and relaxation to support your horse’s athletic performance. Nervous System Function Sodium and potassium are electrolytes and are involved in transmitting nerve impulses, which facilitates proper communication within the nervous system. Immune System Support Zinc and selenium play key roles in maintaining a healthy immune system to help your horse ward off infections and diseases. Essential Equine Minerals Certain minerals are particularly important for your horse’s wellbeing. Here are some key minerals and their functions: Calcium Vital for bone health, muscle contraction, and blood clotting. Phosphorus Works in tandem with calcium for proper bone development and energy metabolism. Magnesium Works with calcium and supports muscle function, nervous system health, and enzyme activation. Potassium Essential for proper muscle and nerve function, as well as maintaining fluid balance. Zinc Plays a role in immune function, wound healing, hoof, and coat health, protein synthesis and iron metabolism. Works with copper, iron, and manganese. Copper Required for the formation of connective tissues, red blood cells, and iron metabolism. It also triggers pigment production in melanocytes. Works with zinc, iron, and manganese. Selenium Acts as an antioxidant, supporting immune function and muscle health. Ensuring Proper Equine Mineral Balance Maintaining the right mineral balance in your horse’s diet is crucial. Consider these tips: Quality Forage Provide high-quality forage as the foundation of your horse’s diet, as it contains many essential minerals. Balanced Feed Choose a feed that is specifically formulated to provide a well-balanced mineral profile, considering your horse’s age, activity level, and specific dietary needs. Equine Mineral Supplements If your horse’s diet lacks certain minerals, consult with a veterinarian or equine nutritionist to determine the appropriate mineral supplements to add to their feed. Regular Testing Periodically test your horse’s forage and soil to identify any mineral deficiencies or excesses, allowing for appropriate adjustments in their diet. Frequently Asked Questions About The Importance of Equine Minerals in Your Horse’s Diet Can my horse consume too many minerals? Excessive mineral intake can be harmful to your horse’s health. It is important to provide minerals in appropriate amounts based on their specific requirements and consult with professionals for guidance. Should I feed equine mineral supplements separately from the main feed? Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for equine supplement administration. Some equine mineral supplements can be mixed with the main feed, while others may need to be given separately. Are all minerals equally important for my horse’s diet? Each mineral plays a specific role in your horse’s health, and some need to be present in a certain ratio with other minerals for correct metabolism to occur i.e. calcium / phosphorus, calcium / magnesium, iron / copper / zinc / manganese. Consult with equine nutrition experts to ensure your horse’s diet meets its specific mineral requirements. Key Takeaways About Understanding the Importance of Equine Minerals in Your Horse’s Diet Minerals are essential nutrients that contribute to your horse’s overall health, including bone and hoof strength, muscle function, and immune system support. Providing a well-balanced diet with quality forage, balanced feed, and appropriate mineral supplements will help ensure your horse receives the necessary minerals for optimal health
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